Monday 19 September 2022

Kuthampilly weavers recreate the famed parrot motif of the Kalakshetra sari on the Kerala Kasavu

The parrot has an essential function in Tamil tradition and seems in Indian mythology as a realized sage, additionally a motif of affection.

The parrot has an essential function in Tamil tradition and seems in Indian mythology as a realized sage, additionally a motif of affection.

 Within the late Nineteen Thirties, Rukmini Devi Arundale, dancer, Theosophist and founding father of Chennai-based Kalakshetra Basis, launched the kili (parrot) motif on the Kalakshetra sari. At this time, this design has discovered its manner into the Kerala kasavu, courtesy Kochi-based designer Shruthi Prajosh, as a part of her Onam Edit.

A textile fanatic, Shruthi has labored with the handloom weavers of Kuthampilly in Thrissur for 13 years and launched the Kaithiri challenge to deliver round-the-year work to the weavers. “It is a dream come true,” she says. “I’ve been chatting with the weavers about this design for the final six months.” She says the youthful weavers (round 30% of the Kuthampilly weaving neighborhood) are desirous to experiment with new designs.

Shruthi has imported motifs from totally different traditions, cultures and mythology of India on to the Kerala kasavu, which is normally worn solely in the course of the festivals within the state. 4 years in the past, she designed a sari with the Tree of Life motif. Different improvements embrace kasavu saris in pastel shades (to be worn on totally different events), including the orange selvedge to the border and including the phoda khumba motif (the triangular-shaped roof) from temple structure.

“Six years in the past, we launched kattam (checks), vara (stripes) and strategies just like the ‘muthu kattam’ from Kanjeevaram, within the physique of the kasavu. We took technical assist, in making the kili card, inviting a weaver from Coimbatore to work with us at Kuthampilly. As a weave, the kattam require precision and proper calculation,” says Shruthi. The weaver does the psychological math to calculate the required thread rely.

Shruthi explains that the 200-odd weavers in Kuthampilly initially hailed from Tamil Nadu. “Round 500 years in the past, the native king introduced these weavers right here they usually settled down. They converse a mixture of Tamil, Malayalam and Konkani.”

In keeping with Chennai-based textile researcher Sreemathy Mohan, the unique parrot motif was first discovered within the costume Rukmini Devi Arundale wore when she enacted the dance drama, Kutrala Kurvinji. “It was a cotton sungadi and the parrots on it have been enormous.” Probably the most common motifs it was additionally crafted on Venkatagiri saris and the Ashavalli brocades of Gujarat.

A motif of affection

The parrot has an essential function in Tamil tradition and seems in Indian mythology as a realized sage. Additionally it is a motif of affection and subsequently kinds an essential sample in bridal trousseau saris.

By- The Hindu



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